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wendy jaeger 10/27/12 wendy jaeger 10/27/12

Holiday Vacation in Paris: Paris Pastry, Party & Holiday Treats

Holiday Vacation in Paris: Paris Pastry, Party & Holiday Treats

The LA Times wrote about Paris pastries, and I am quoting below, because this is the time of year we start to think of sweet treats --the holidays are approaching and we are busy planning so that our holiday travelers experience the best of that Paris has to offer in the form of sweats and treats.

Paris: The City of Pastries

By Karen Leland, Special to the Los Angeles Times

"The next time you're in Paris, drop your concern about carbs and surrender to sugar. The jewelry-like pastries these top-tier tastemakers turn out make it worth putting aside your intestinal fortitude for a bit of heaven.Pierre Hermé: In this chic shop on Rue Bonaparte in the St-Germain-des-Prés neighborhood, a serious discussion is taking place between a well-dressed Frenchwoman in her mid-40s and the store clerk. The salesperson is inquiring about what cuisine and wines the hostess will be serving, the purpose of the occasion and even the dress code.After gathering all the information he deems necessary, the merchant makes his recommendations. The hostess affirms his choices with a brief nod and, with gloved hands, he removes a selection of macarons from their place in the case and places them gently in a round box with orange piping that says simply, "Pierre Hermé."Pierre Hermé is one of several famous patisseries in Paris that have become well known for their macarons — a delicate cream-filled cookie with a crisp outer shell. Part of what has made these macarons so popular, despite their price tag of about $2.50 each, is the unusual flavor combinations, such as Arabesque, with apricot and pistachio; Mogador, made from passion fruit and milk chocolate; and Magnifique, a combination of strawberry and wasabi.One of the top pastry chefs in Paris, Pierre Hermé has managed to marry the dense taste of an exotic cake with the light crunch of a sugar cookie — creating nothing short of a macaron movement."

Bliss Travels Review: What I find most interesting are the places they chose to write about. Among them are Pierre Herme and Gerard Mulot, two renown pastry chefs with quintessential Left Bank shops. You certainly don't want to miss the pastries at either. I'm surprised though that no mention was made of Pierre Herme's "2000 feuille". What we commonly call a "Napoleon" --a pastry confection piped with caramel and vanilla cream --is one of his best treats. The "real" name for this is Mille Feuille (thousand sheets/leaves). This refers to the paper thin layers of pastry that are piled below, between and above the filling. Chef Herme's is called 2000 Feuille --an obvious nod to his opinion (accurate) of his pastry and its delicacy. So, all of this is by way of saying that the LA Times sure found some hot spots...Pierre Herme is no slouch. But, they didn't find some of the best kept secrets in Paris pastry. (Or maybe they did but they didn't want to publicize the places and change the nature of what they made and how they made it.) The places we most enjoy frequenting, in addition to what the LA Times mentions are the little shops with small production of what can only be described as a cross between a gastronomic feast and a work of art. Whether they are items that are color coordinated for the holidays, double as decoration, or are little jewels packed with astounding flavor, as only the French can do, we encourage you to explore and try them all. They are a feast for the eyes as well as the mouth. The experience is Bliss! So, plan your pastry extravaganza through Paris, or come with us!

wendy jaeger 5/12/12 wendy jaeger 5/12/12

Tour France (& the world) with Bliss and other Bloggers!

An Award! Love it! Thank you Backyard in Provence. We find your posts "blissful" to read as well! Ashley is living the dream, having moved to Provence with her husband and daughter. She gets to spend all of her time on exploring this amazing region - imagine if your vacation in Provence didn't end after a week or two!! We love her posts, and know that every single one of our readers and clients are jealous@The "how to" of this award is:

Thank the person who gave this award and write a post about it.
Answer the questions on your favorites below.
Pass on the award to 10 fabulous bloggers, link their blogs, and let them know you awarded them.

Here are my favorites:

Favorite Color – Red in Spring (for poppies) and Purple/lavender in summer for you know what! And, of course, oranges in fall....Do I have to pick one color for the entire year?Favorite Animal – Emmy the wonder dog (all of my clients know why that is....the rest of you will have to come on a trip to find out!) --any clients who wish to comment on Emmy may do so freely below!Favorite Number – right now, 5 --the number of exciting summer trips we have planned!Favorite Drink – Rose in Provence and Burgundy anywhere else!Facebook or Twitter – Facebook --I like photos!Your Passion – That's easy --France--mostly Provence, the Med and Burgundy. That's why the business is named BLISS travels!Giving or getting presents – Giving. Love to see happy surprised people!Favorite Day – Any day spent in Provencal sunshine.Favorite Flowers – Poppies and anything growing in the Luxembourg gardens.Backyard in Provence "stole" some of my favorite blogger's names. So please know you also would have been nominated.Please click away and check out some of these blogs. If you’re on the list, please pay it forward….1. bobbieconti2. ENOFLYZ3. Foodimentary4. Lot18 Blog5. Rantings of an Amateur Chef6. Leslie Carterand related 7. Bucket List Publications8. FrenchWeddingStyle (Monique Mariage)9. My World of Food Adventures10. Travel Destination Bucket ListAll great writers, adventurers, diners --as well as visually exciting! Share the Bliss

wendy jaeger 4/4/12 wendy jaeger 4/4/12

Spring in Provence: Bliss Travels Newsletter

OUR NEWSLETTER!

Bonjour!

Spring has sprung! On our recent trip to Paris was sunny and beautiful. Spring is a spectacular time to travel to Provence too. Poppy fields, iris's, cherry blossoms, vines, and beautiful weather. All without any crowds. . There is still time to book our May 15-21, 2012 custom trip to Provence and Paris. See things most tourists don't have access to. Enjoy custom itineraries in a private, small group setting. Contact us now. 609 462 6213.wendy@blisstravels.com.

Foodie Trends in France

Local takes on new meaning in France. Local is not just from the region, it's specific to the village, sometimes the farm. Our artisan jam maker in Provence grows all of her own fruits and herbs. Lavender, olive, lemon, verbena, strawberry, peach...if it's not in her back yard, and ripe for the picking, then it's not in her pots of jam or sorbet flavors. Chemicals and additives? No way. And now the chefs are following that trend. The top spots are buying from the local producers, in small quantities....

See our blog for more photos and trends.

Summer Provence Travel

Spring and Summer fun in Provence and along the Mediterranean. We have great dates and special itineraries available. Tour the Provencal markets. See the Bastille Day fireworks. Witness the running of the bulls. Ancient villages, impressionist art, wineries and so much more. Book your trip now. wendy@blisstravels.com

"I miss France! What a great trip. I felt so spoiled having you take care of everything. Thank you. Being a person that does like "tours" and having already been through Provence I didn't really expect much - I couldn't have been more wrong!!!" (October, 2011, New York client)

Sincerely,

Wendy Jaeger

Bliss Travels

Up and Coming

French Culinary Trends

Summer Trips

Spring in Provence

Insider Access Makes the Difference!

What does an "insider" provide? What difference does exclusive access to things not available to the public make? Click here to read what Anthony says and you'll find out!

Or just read what our clients say:

"Wendy gave me not one but two vacations of a lifetime. The first vacation was so nice I booked a return trip within 60 days.... Her knowledge of the country and culture and attention to my special needs...and ability to deliver made me feel I was always in good hands. It was so nice I did it twice." (April and June 2011, Philadelphia client)

"I had the most wonderful trip to Burgundy..... As a former head of the Bordeaux wine society in Washington, DC, but a great lover of Burgundies, I can tell you that all of my expectations were exceeded, from the pre-Burgundy days in Paris , during which I experienced things I had not, despite living in Paris for almost 5 years, to the Burgundy Adventure - including where we stayed, the tours, both of Beaune and the chateaux, the teaching sessions, and the meals (Ah, the meals!) it was the best vacation of its type I had ever taken. " (September, 2011 Washington, DC client.)

Follow-up Links

Bliss Travels May in Provence Summer Travel

Bliss Travels News Blog

wendy jaeger 2/9/12 wendy jaeger 2/9/12

How to Have a Great Lunch in Paris...Off The Beaten Track

Everyone wants that little, special, "we're the only tourists there and the chef is soooooo good, but without all the pomp and circumstance" bistrot. But, here's the thing. Not everyone finds it. Why? Because unless you know someone, or live in Paris, or go there a dozen times a year, you just aren't going to be in the know. You're going to know what the guide books know. Unless, of course, you experience "Bliss" as we did today!Our favorite "private" chef in Paris treated us to a new treasure!(Bliss Travels clients have tasted his amazing creations --everything from goat cheese flan with roasted tomatoes to chicken roulade stuffed with foie gras in a mason jar on a bed of seasoned vegetables, plus a side dish of cold artichoke and vinaigrette, accompanied by starters of homemade breadsticks and an eggplant dip. Not to be outdone, dessert was a roasted and caramelized pineapple with homemade nougat. And we're talking a PICNIC he made for one of our train rides....So, yep, you get it now, don't you? So, when he said, "Allons Y" or Let's go, we did! Tout de suite!)Off the beaten track. Great chef. Warm welcome. So fun, we closed the place down. (Sorry, Chef, next time we'll peel carrots to help with the mise en place for the dinner service!) Christian, Pierre and Serge along with their wonderful staff made us feel utterly at home!First course was a boudin terrine with chestnuts, and a great, salad.After came a pintadeau with thyme, on a bed of lentils, carrots and parsnip. Lardons bits were cooked with the lentils, and potatoes on top were like nowhere else! There was also veal chop, cooked rare, topped vegetables and in a black truffle jus....oh, ho hum. I know you have this every day!Just to put the icing on the cake, as it were, we were treated to an outstanding view, and we learned that our chef is willing to give private lessons to Bliss Travels Clients!

wendy jaeger 2/2/12 wendy jaeger 2/2/12

7 Chocolate and French Wine Pairings for Valentines!

Chocolate and Wine....Much like wine, chocolate is harvested, fermented, liquified and "made" into the final product. The "terroir" and the "maker" bring much to the final product.Cocoa grows near the equator, and the heat and type of plant (like wine) create distinct flavor profiles. Cocoa beans are harvested and then fermented. They are dried and processed and eventually ground, roasted and broken down. Finally, they go through a process called "conching", which is akin to constant kneading--and determines the texture of the chocolate. At this point the chocolate is then used as a raw product for artisans and large manufacturers to make their bars, ganaches, clusters and other candies.Each manufacturer adds his/her own special mixture of ingredients --vanilla, sugar, cream, spice, nuts. Different cultures tend to produce similarly styled chocolates. American chocolates tend to be sweeter, less pure (i.e. milk v. dark) and larger. Belgian and French tend to use much less sugar, rely on thinner more delicate shells for their filled chocolates, use pure creams in the centers (not 'creamy' sugar fillings), and produce higher percentages of purer (i.e. more dark and less milk) chocolate.This blog is going to focus on Pairing French Wine and Belgian or French Chocolate, of course!Here are 7 tips and pairing suggestions to sweeten your Valentine's Day at home or abroad. 1. Pair Champagne with chocolates. Especially with lighter less rich chocolates, or fresh filled Neuhaus creams. Also, this pairs well with chocolate fruit combinations. 2. Pair a French Burgundy (Pinot Noir) with mild, but rich dark chocolates, and dark chocolates with mild spice, roasted nuts or ripe berry fruits. So, consider chocolates with cardamom, hazelnut or dark cherries for these wines.3. Pair Rhone wines, such as a Chateauneuf du Pape (and other Grenache heavy wines) or wines with rich spicy flavor and high tannins with highly spiced complex chocolates that can match the power of the wine. So, consider chocolate and chili pepper or chocolate with pink peppercorns or strong tea flavors and spice mixtures as good combinations.4. For purists, wanting to experience the depth of one flavor, use a single origin chocolate with a single grape wine. You can focus on the subtly of each more easily.5. Pair a dessert wine, we prefer a Muscat de Beaumes de Venise, with a salted chocolate or salted caramel chocolate. Make sure you use a rich full flavored deep chocolate. Not a milk chocolate.6. Have a Cognac with a chocolate --either complement it with a cognac flavored truffle or find a very low sugar, almost pure, dark chocolate.7. Come with Bliss Travels where we do custom pairings and tastings of these things all over France, and in Brussels! At all the best spots! That's why we call it Bliss!

wendy jaeger 12/25/11 wendy jaeger 12/25/11

Christmas Tastings....In Paris

How do you spend Christmas in Paris? From the culinary perspective, that is!First, you must visit the markets for the seasonal treats.And, of course, visit the best pastry shops! We led a pastry and chocolate tasting to taste some of the best of what Paris has to offer....ho ho ho!After walking through the shops and munching on things like millefeuille, lemon tart, madeleines, candied chestnuts, and more, we took a stroll through the Luxembourg Gardens and St Sulpice. Then we relaxed in our own private lounge, sipping real Hot Chocolate and sampling artisan pastries and a selection of 5 different chocolates and caramels.Of course, we also had "real meals"! Hope you all have a very Merry Christmas. We will. We'll be dining in a cozy traditional bistro on French fare such as oysters, foie gras, scallops, truffles, lamb, bass and duck...What are your favorite holiday dishes to dine on if you are away for the holidays?What says "Christmas" to you when you sit at your table? And, what would you try if you were in Paris --during the holidays or any time?

wendy jaeger 12/19/11 wendy jaeger 12/19/11

Christmas in Paris: It Must be Time for Something…

You know --that moment after you've had lunch, and walked, and seen "everything"...there must be something else to do or have or see....cause this is so much fun!

So, how do you spend a day in Paris over Christmas week? Well, first you…

1.Find an out of the way, top of the top, Bistrot, with a star chef

2.You walk a mile and take the metro –to get there (and stimulate appetite

3.You order: Oysters Tartare with Cream of Lettuce or some other unfathomable but superb combination of ingredients

4.You walk the Christmas markets all afternoon

buying presents and drinking hot spiced wine!

Enjoy the sights!Stay tuned for DAY TWO!

wendy jaeger 12/5/11 wendy jaeger 12/5/11

In Paris & Brussels, Tis The Season for Chocolate

Now that the weather outside is frosty (hear the tune in your head), it's time for chocolate! Real chocolate. Delicate chocolates. Chocolates that don't like too much heat because they are filled with real, fresh, flavored cream, or stamped and painted with gorgeous drawings, or melted and stirred into thick unctuous decadent drinks. Is your mouth watering yet?Each winter --in both December and February (Valentine's Day, anyone?) Bliss Travels visits the most magnificent chocolatiers and patissieres to see what new creations and exciting treats are available. (And, we don't just visit, we taste, and taste...and then have a glass of Champagne --whoops, got distracted. Sorry!)This year is no different. Even if you can't come on our Christmas week trip (where we do this in Paris) or our Valentine's weekend or add on a visit to Brussels, you can still look at these amazing treats and learn what to find here. What could be better ?Smaller than American confections, and typically more delicate, with thinner shells, these treats also have significantly less sugar, making them (in the opinion of Bliss Travels) practically a health food! (Truth: they are less fattening, and less addictive, because there is less sugar and nothing that's chemical in them.) If you talk to an artisan in Brussels or Paris, they will tell you chocolate in proper "doses" is medicinal and very good for you. I wouldn't argue with that if I were you. I sure don't!Some of the flavors below include lavender and a fresh cream of tiramisu!The chocolates in this photo are from Neuhaus. You can buy this brand in the US, but you cannot buy the fresh creams. They are too delicate to travel. The photo here depicts chocolates filled with a very light flavored whipped cream (this is not the cloying sweet gummy stuff we call "creams" in the box of assorted chocolates you get in the US). You must get these in BRUSSELS.So, what to do here. Look for small batch chocolates, make by artisans. Look for higher quality (and darker, more pure) chocolates. Avoid anything with a list of ingredients with things you personally wouldn't cook with. Look for smaller pieces, interesting flavors, freshest ingredients.Then there are other things you can do with chocolate...If you're in Paris or Brussels! Take a look at a typical, well done treat. (But, you have to know where to go!)What could be a better gift than Chocolate --well, taking that person tasting in Paris --but, if you can't do that, find the real thing here. It makes a difference.We wish you a truly sweet season....And hope you'll join us soon! It's BlissIf you want to know more, write me. I love to hear from people! Wendy@blisstravels.com

wendy jaeger 12/2/11 wendy jaeger 12/2/11

Versatile Blogger Award

BLISS TRAVELS NEWS HAS been nominated for its first award! I hope you'll read our blogs and look at our videos and give us more fabulous feedback!There are three requirements:1. Thank the person who nominated you and link to their blog.Wow! Thank you MegTraveling for that nomination. I'm new to blogging, but just couldn't stop myself from writing about the things that make me follow my Bliss! I enjoy your posts too!2. Reveal 7 things about yourself.7 things about Bliss Travels:I named it that because it's True! I followed my Bliss to France!I've been traveling to France for more than 30 years and find something new every single trip!I'm hopelessly energetic about my topics and even dream about them (embarrassing)!Our real focus is food and wine, even when it isn't!I'm camera shy, even though we do photography trips and people are always snapping my picture.The people I work with are people I like --otherwise I don't work with them.I become friends with my clients. I can't help it.3. Nominate and link to 15 bloggers.I'd like to nominate the following bloggers for their excellent photography, writing, topics and insights!NicoleMillerPhiladelphia.blogspot.com writingfeemail Becoming Madame Victor Tribunsky http://anthonybphotos.blogspot.com La Petite Pastry Monkey Cushiontheimpact.wordpress.com Anuneduatedpalate.com ENOFYLZ Gusta.com/blog On A Pink Typewriter.emilialiveslife Wineguys Radio and TV SarahMillerPhotography allyson, recipe ranger

wendy jaeger 11/15/11 wendy jaeger 11/15/11

5 Tips for Eating and Drinking in France Like a Local

Eating and drinking are different in France. Why? Because the culture is different. If you are going to travel to France --or anywhere, for that matter --why not try it "their way". If nothing else, it should provide you with an interesting experience and a better understanding of the culture. So, here are some tips for how to do both like the locals. I bet you'll have a few "ah ha" moments when you realize you may have misinterpreted things in the past!1. How to order Coffee! Seems simple enough, doesn't it? Well, I don't know about you but I think it's complicated wherever you are. In the US Starbucks has turned ordering coffee into a multi lingual tongue twister. In France, it's very simple --as long as you follow the custom! Cafe au lait (or any coffee served with milk or cream) is a breakfast drink, and not generally served after noon, or with meals. A "cafe normal" or "espresso" is just that --expresso in a small cup, served with a small cold glass of water. that's served during "coffee breaks", at cafes, and after meals. Can't take "expresso". Then order a "cafe Allonge" (literally "stretched out") or a "cafe Americaine" --both are watered down espressos --in other words, a typical strength coffee.2. Dessert comes Before Coffee. Not with. You can't have it with. The waiter will say yes, but if the place is any good --or even remotely authentic-- this won't happen. Don't worry. It's better after! You finish your meal, and get the nice "pick me up" of the cup of coffee. Need something sweet? Never fear. Coffee comes with a little something sweet, always --a chocolate (in the basic cafes) or tiny pastries of some sort in the "nicer" restaurants.3. Sauces in France won't make you fat, and don't come 'on the side'. "Hmmm", you say, "how is that possible?" Glad you asked. Because the meals are balanced, the portions, including sauces, are smaller, the food is very fresh, and we don't snack endlessly on things between meals because the meal itself is completely satisfying. If you order sauces on the side, you will (a) either ruin your meal, or (b) consume more of the delicious sauce than you would have had you let the chef dress the dish with what was probably a teaspoon to a tablespoon of sauce (rather than the 1/4 cup they might bring you).

4. Be Patient. We really value prompt service in the US. But, that's not the case everywhere else in the world. It's neither bad nor good, it's just different. Don't expect a waiter to run to your table when you arrive. It's customary to allow people to "settle in" and relax before pressing them for their food orders. Also, don't expect the check to be delivered as soon as the dessert spoon (or coffee cup) drops from your hand. Unless you're at a sidewalk cafe (or the place knows you're American and is trying to accommodate you). It is the height of rudeness in France to plop a check down on the table unbidden. It is tantamount to telling the diner to leave. You are at the restaurant to enjoy yourself. You are meant to relax. Thus, nobody is going to bother you by asking you to pay or leave, until you are ready to do so. So many times I hear stories from clients who say that "the French do not like Americans." And their justification for that is that the "waiters ignored them". They were left to languish at the table with no service and couldn't get the check....Time to reinterpret that behavior. The peaceful enjoyment of your meal and the people that you are with is what the French dining experience is about. So, you will not be bothered to leave or pressed to order. Enjoy it for what it is. You'll be home soon enough!

5. Order from the Prix Fixe menus. The specials and the meals really are special. They are not "left overs". They are the market fresh items. Order the 3 or 4 courses. In most places the portion sizes in the prix fixe menus will be made small enough to make this an enjoyable tasting experience as opposed to an endurance contest. As a general rule, the larger the number of courses, the smaller the portion size of each course. The goal of these multi course menus is to give you a taste of what's best and leave you happy, not to overload you with food so you feel like you got supersized and not to make you feel you need a stretcher or a stomach pump.

Any ideas for customs you wish to explore, let me know. We'd love to discuss it!

wendy jaeger 10/28/11 wendy jaeger 10/28/11

Paris: Top 6 Culinary Treats During the Holidays

One of the great things about French food is that it's so seasonal....Unlike our large supermarkets where you can find "n'importe quoi, n'importe quand" (anything, anytime), that's not the case in France. April/May are for strawberries and asparagus. July and August for peaches and melons, and so on. Well, the December holidays, though not during a "growing" season, have some of the most special culinary treats of any time of year. This is the time of year for....1. Foie Gras. Too hot to keep well (and too rich) for summer. This is prime time for foie gras. Best served with dried fruits, fruit breads, chutney...Don't miss out on this. There are even "stands" at some of the Christmas markets that serve this as street food. And also, there are fabulous specialty places that make or bring in the best of the best. We have a restaurant we frequent who does this beautifully.

: foie gras by the "master" (photo by Anthony Bianciella)

2. Oysters and Champagne. Yes, you can have this along the streets or by the river bank during the holidays only. The vendors are set up, and a heater or fire is not too far away. Contemplate the lit up night sky while having these treats. Best of the best, at the best time of year. Walk to find the best market streets or by the river bank, where the views are "manifique".

3. Chestnuts. In many forms. Roasted, and sold on the streets, or pureed and served with lamb or venison. Or candied and soaked in cognac (and sold by the best gourmet shops. Try Fauchon for this special treat. They do it particularly well.) A nutty but sweet flavor, that can be an accompaniment to both savories and desserts (think, Mont Blanc)!

photo by Sarah Miller Photography

4. Anything...in a Truffle Sauce. (Still remembering that dish as it simmered for Christmas Eve dinner in a little --very little-- bistrot we frequent, on the Left Bank). I met the chef that morning as I was out shopping and he was taking a cigarette break. When i commented on the heavenly smell coming from his kitchen, he invited me in. He showed me the boudin blanc and the truffle sauce he was making. Also cooking a stuffed game hen for the night, he gave me a personal recommendation --Get the hen, and then ask for the truffle sauce on the hen. Sublime!

(And just as an aside, I have to tell you the most amazing story. I was in Provence, finishing a very small group trip, when a 2 star Michelin chef asked to speak with me to thank me for bringing my clients to his establishment. He asked what he could do for me, and I jokingly said, "you can give me a truffle" and pointed to the huge (and I mean huge) box of truffles sitting a few feet away....He laughed. And a few minutes later started barking orders to people in the kitchen. Within 30 seconds a bag was handed to me with 3 giant black truffles, and a warm thank you. I was in shock --and very, very grateful. I shared my good fortune with the people who had helped make the trip a success, and we used the truffles to make eggs, truffle butter, top pasta, and marvelous sandwiches with cheese. Yum.)

5. Warm Wines. As we stroll the Christmas markets, there are vendors who sell warm mulled wine, both white and red. They add calvados or cognac to them for an added degree of "warmth" and you take your cup and stroll along the miles of markets looking for your favorite artisan products or gifts. Highly recommend this. We visit several of the markets each year. One with art and antiques, one with traditional gifts and crafts...And always some with fabulous gourmet products.6. Chocolates. This is the time of year the really fine, and very perishable chocolates come out of hiding--and in full view. Perhaps you've heard of the wonderful Maison du Chocolat. Truly a great place. But, there are some remarkable, amazing, smaller (lesser known outside of Paris, but feted as masters in Paris) chocolate houses....And dare I say, it's worth going to Brussels to experience some of this magic. We often do day or overnight trips to Brussels for just this purpose (along with some mussels, or amazing savory waffles). One year, I insist, I'm doing this over the Holidays with a group. You don't know what you're missing!

: Brussels, at Christmas (photo by Sarah Miller Photography)

wendy jaeger 10/24/11 wendy jaeger 10/24/11

Fall...Along the Mediterranean

Yes, jousting is still possible to watch. Bet you wanted to know how popular this Medeival sport really was. We were pretty surprised to see this. But, it does fit with the mood along the coast, where there are games and performances, no matter what the season.

Wine tasting in our favorite "cave". Trying the local whites.

Dinner in a private room, overlooking the Mediterranean cliffs at sunset.

Some of the dining choices...Mussels along the Med are often paired with wonderful sauces. This had a tomato, onion, and a touch of cream.Rascasse -- a fish found only in the Mediterreanean.A nice walk after a satisfying dinner.

calm and quiet after the summer high season.

cafe lounging before our walk around the cliffs.It was a beautiful, fall day...wind was blowing, but that made the sky very blue and the temperatures cool enough to walk all afternoon.